Boer vs Kiko
Boer or Kiko? A side-by-side comparison of size, lifespan, temperament, care needs and observed prices, from our Animal Library.
At a glance
| Boer | Kiko | |
|---|---|---|
| Purpose | Meat | Meat |
| Origin | South Africa | New Zealand |
| Mature weight | Does 190–230 lb | Does 100–150 lb |
| Lifespan | 10–12 years | 10–12 years |
| Temperament | Docile, calm | Independent, alert |
| Best fit | Meat herds, 4-H | Low-input meat, brush |
| Energy | ●●●●● Calm, less jumpy | ●●●●● Busy foragers |
| Hardiness | ●●●●● Needs parasite control | ●●●●● Parasite resistant |
| Fencing needs | ●●●●● Strong fencing | ●●●●● Good at escaping |
| Beginner fit | ●●●●● Good first meat goat | ●●●●● Easy-care meat goat |
| Observed price | Not enough prices yet | Not enough prices yet |
How they differ
- Energy: the Kiko rates higher than the Boer (4 of 5 vs 3).
- Hardiness: the Kiko rates higher than the Boer (5 of 5 vs 3).
- Fencing needs: the Kiko rates higher than the Boer (4 of 5 vs 3).
- Beginner fit: about the same (4 of 5 each).
The Boer
Boer goats were developed in South Africa for meat, with a white body and red head. They are the most common meat goat in the US and grow fast and heavy, which suits producers selling kids and 4-H families.
Boers are more prone to internal parasites than hardy breeds like Kiko and need regular fecal checks. They eat more and need solid, woven-wire fencing.
The Kiko
Kikos were developed in New Zealand in the 1980s from feral goats crossed with dairy bucks, selected for survival with little help. They are known as a hardy, low-input meat goat with good mothering and strong parasite resistance.
Kikos grow a little slower and carry less muscle than Boers. They are more independent and can be harder to handle if not worked often.
Questions
Is a Boer or a Kiko better for a beginner?
Neither has the edge: both rate 4 of 5 for beginners in our Animal Library. Boer: Good first meat goat. Kiko: Easy-care meat goat.
What is the main difference between a Boer and a Kiko?
Boers are more prone to internal parasites than hardy breeds like Kiko and need regular fecal checks. They eat more and need solid, woven-wire fencing. By contrast, kikos grow a little slower and carry less muscle than Boers. They are more independent and can be harder to handle if not worked often.